This blog entry will outline the process of the Top-down Costings and assumptions made by looking at costing examples.
Camilla and Marc Elemental Denim Trench
Here is an example of top-down costing looking at a trenchcoat by Camilla and Marc. Here is a quick garment description for reference:
Hooded button-up khaki denim trench detachable at the waist, with button openings, elastic fastenings, chest pockets, internal pockets and zipper detachment.
As the garment interfacing is concealed from view I made the assumption that any facing is fused with lightweight woven fusing, to match the denim fabrication. From observing the garment in store, the facing sections felt like a thin layer of fusing was present. The pocket lining of the garment is thinner than the denim and has a lighter weight but the same matte texture, my assumption is that this is a poplin or polypop.
I noticed that there were three of this item in store in three different sizes, retailing at $868.00. Looking at the label, garments currently available on Camilla and Marc’s e-boutique range from $199 to $1200, which makes the median garment price $699.50. The e-boutique also lists 4 different sizes of which 2 are out of stock, indicating that production numbers may not be high.
Assuming that the department store stocked one of each size in each branch there would be a total of 148 garments available in stores. Considering this is the latest collection and two sizes have sold out online, I assumed that there were no more than 5 of each size available in stock for the e-boutique. Hence my estimate of the production quantity would be 168 garments.
Through discussion with a fellow student dyeing costs quoted by Nikmar (Fashion dyehouse located in Marrickville) are at $50 to set up single colour dye bath and an additional $50-$100 for 10 metres. This however is the rate quoted to students and other dye services can incur additional costs. I would estimate the pricing above this. I also estimated that 1.5 metres of fabric is required for each garment.
From my own experience of making detachable garments, this garment has a complex pattern at as estimated price of $50/hour this pattern I would expect to take about 7 hours. I also estimated grading costs to be at $50/size, based on the costing template under the assumption that there are 4 sizes available.
I have priced the quality control quite high as the garments are produced overseas, hence quality control can be done in place of production, by flying over or paying for someone at the location to check product. The other option is to undertake quality control once garments have been shipped over, however in this case is any quality problems are picked up to ship a single garment back, have it replaced and shipped again, would also incur costs.
Ellery Orlando Rounded Raglan Bomber
The next garment I looked at is the the raglan bomber by Ellery from the Fall 2013 Collection. I described the garment in my garment component analysis as below.
Raglan bomber jacket with Concealed press studs, ribbed collar, hem and wrist darts and zipper sleeve feature.
The main fabric is patent coated heavy wool, so I assumed that no interfacing was necessary for this garment based on my knowledge that the wool would give the garment shell it’s thickness and the coating, it’s stiffness. Garment prices of all available Ellery garments on the website range from $180 to $1950, with a median of 1065.
The most expensive garments however utilise a similar treatment to this jacket, hence it is likely that the garment treatment is labour intensive. The garment comes in 5 sizes, but I was only able to find 3 on the shelves in store. It is likely that more of the standard sizes were produced than the smaller or larger.
The garment was also produced in Australia, which is likely to bring up the production costs and lower the production quantity. With this information I made the assumption that if this garment was stocked in half of the department store branches in 3 sizes, and the online shop stocked 3 sets across all size range, the production quantity would be about 70. I have included the fabric coating cost in the total cost of the fabric, hence the high price of the fabric.
Flannel Rotolo Crop Jacket
The last jacket I looked at in my research is this leather jacket from the Flannel Winter 2013 collection. I described the jacket in my garment component analysis as below.
Chocolate coloured, button-up collarless jacket with front pockets, hem and wristband, princess panels, centreback panels and two-piece sleeves.
The prices of available Flannel garments range from $135 to $1280, with a price median of $707.50. This indicates that this particular jacket is above the price median. There are 4 available sizes all of which were stocked in store upon my visit. Considering this and the leather fabrication I made the assumption that the production quantity for this garment would be limited. However the garment has a simple pattern and is produced overseas which indicates this could increase production quantity slightly. If this jacket is stocked in half the department store chains in each size, the quantity in store would be 72. I will assume that the total production quantity is 80 with 2 of each size available for purchase online.
I estimated high export, wastage and sampling costs, due to the use of leather fabrication, which makes sampling a lot more expensive, as well creates a more intense fabric matching process once this goes into production. Also if the leather is selected locally, the cost of transporting this to makers will also need to be factored in. However as the garment is produced overseas the cost of making the garment should be significantly less than local rates.